The Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel will undertake a comprehensive literature review of hair dyes at its Sept. 8-9 meeting to evaluate the link between the use of hair dyes and incidence of cancer.

Among the new information CIR plans to review are epidemiology data stemming from research conducted by Johns Hopkins University and sponsored by Procter & Gamble.

While there have been small studies linking hair dye use to cancer, the findings are generally refuted in larger follow up studies, CIR Director Alan Andersen, PhD, stated.

However, these data have not been reviewed in total by CIR, and the panel decided last year "it needed to look at all of the most current information...and try to figure out what the substantial bulk of the data says about the link between the use of hair dye and incidence of cancer," Andersen said.

The panel last examined related studies in the early 1990s when the majority of the data showed a link between cancer and hair dye use was unlikely, he added.

Use of hair dyes has been linked to bladder cancer in two studies by Manuela Gago-Dominguez et al. of the University of Southern California (¹ 'The Rose Sheet' April 15, 2002, In Brief). The research led the EU's Scientific Committee on Cosmetic Products and Non-Foods Products to acknowledged a link between permanent hair dye use and bladder cancer (² Also see "EU Safety Review Of Hair Dyes Requires More Data, Committee Says" - HBW Insight, 21 April, 2003., p. 3).

The CIR panel will re-examine previously reviewed hair dye ingredients following the release of the epidemiological data, according to Andersen.

CIR likely will revisit hair dye ingredient 2-amino-3-nitrophenol, for which the panel issued an insufficient data announcement at its June 9-10 meeting in Washington, D.C.

In addition to the pending release of the epidemiological data, the panel's insufficient data announcement for the ingredient was based on the need for structure activity relationships, additional impurities data and dermal penetration data on chemicals within the ingredient group.

CIR issued an informal data request for the ingredient during its meeting last November (³ Also see "Dibutyl Adipate Tentative Amended Safety Assessment Issued By CIR" - HBW Insight, 2 December, 2002., p. 7).

Additionally, the panel plans to examine hair dye genotoxicity data from L'Oréal, which is slated for completion in the fourth quarter, according to CIR.

During the meeting, CIR also issued an insufficient data announcement for the aloe group, noting additional data on safety is needed.

The panel is seeking a 28-day dermal toxicity study or equivalent data on aloe andogensis extract, aloe arborescens and aloe ferox. CIR also will explore the possibility of setting a limit on the amount of anthraquinones in finished products containing aloe.

CIR noted that data for aloe barbadensis were sufficient, and that the ingredient is safe as used in cosmetic products.

Team leader Donald Belsito, MD, University of Kansas Medical Center, opposed the panel's insufficient data designation for aloe, arguing the ingredient group is safe as used in cosmetics with the exception of aloesin, which has limited data. Belsito recommended aloesin be removed from the report.

The panel reiterated the need for better chemical identification, especially for botanical ingredients. As a result, the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association has reconstituted its Cosmetic Ingredient Chemical Description Committee to examine the identity and composition of ingredients in the marketplace to allow CIR and others to better understand chemical identities, the association explained.

Headed by CTFA Director of Cosmetic Chemistry John Bailey, PhD, the committee currently consists of six industry representatives with expertise in raw materials. The committee hopes to add members to the group, CTFA said.

In other action at the CIR meeting, the panel issued an informal data request for ethanolamine thioglycolate. CIR will combine the report with the safety assessment of the ammonium thioglycolate group, which the panel completed in 1990.

The panel tabled PVP/VA copolymer, yet agreed not to reopen the VA/CA copolymer report (see chart: " ⁴ Cosmetic Ingredient Review Report Status ").

CIR voted not to reopen methyl methacrylate as the ingredient is neither used in retail products nor listed in the CTFA International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook.

Hair Dye Literature Review Will Be Undertaken By CIR In September

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