A report from Black Women For Wellness group suggests a link between health problems that disproportionately affect the black community and chemicals used in the hair care products and styling practices deeply rooted in the demographic's cultural heritage.

Released March 15 in conjunction with a media briefing, the report – titled "Natural Evolutions: One Hair Story" – compiles data and perspective gleaned from "more than five years of surveys, focus groups, literature reviews, canvassing and conversations with African American and black beauty industry professionals."

The research is consistent with BWW's commitment to the health and wellbeing of black women and girls, including the stated goal of reducing "toxic hair-care chemicals that are prevalent in our community."

Citing various studies, though in some cases without providing detail on sources and methodologies, BWW attributes higher incidence of skin and eye irritation, respiratory disorders and reproductive health issues in hairdressers and cosmetologists, compared with the general population, to chemicals in the beauty products to which they are exposed regularly.

The products include hair dyes, bleaches, chemical relaxers, weave glues and permanent wave solutions, as well as nail polish and disinfectants.

"Many of the products marketed to and used by black women are rarely researched for toxic health consequences; in the rare cases that they are, black hair products are found to be some of the most toxic beauty products on the market," BWW says.

Obesogens and cancer-causing chemicals also are cited as concerns, as well as ergonomic risks faced by hair professionals due to prolonged standing, extended hours and other workplace demands.

The nonprofit acknowledges that adverse health effects from chemical exposure can be caused by or compounded in many instances by improper use of personal protective equipment and inadequate prevention measures, signaling a need for better education.

Salon workers are not the only ones vulnerable to chemical risks, the group suggests. BWW points to research associating uterine fibroids – estimated to impact 80% of black women over their lifetime – with use of hair relaxers, and other studies linking early puberty in black girls to toxic exposures from chemical hair oils, perms and detanglers.

"This information along with the proliferation of chemicals in our hair and beauty products, and the possible impacts of untested, unregulated chemicals on black women’s reproductive health, is alarming," the group asserts.

According to BWW, black women spend “twice as much as any other ethnic group” when it comes to “beauty products alone.” The black hair-care industry is expected to reach $500bn by 2017, the group estimates.

The group provides some cultural and historical context for spending statistics and the importance of hair care for many black consumers, which in turn fuels market opportunity and growing discussion about manufacturers' social responsibilities.

"The black hair and beauty industry is more than simply big business; it is multi-layered, complex and touches the lives of black women and girls. It allows for self-expression, tracks family history, it is an economic base, it connects us to black women across the globe and has deep historical roots," BWW says.

Regarding the role that salons and stylists play in black culture, the group adds: "Black hair-care professionals offer stability to our communities. Their history is interwoven with social justice movements, civil rights and integration efforts of our experience in the United States as well as worldwide."

Such deep ties all but assure continued market demand despite the growing prevalence of natural styles. But there are health concerns to consider, BWW says.

"Many of the products marketed to and used by black women are rarely researched for toxic health consequences; in the rare cases that they are, black hair products are found to be some of the most toxic beauty products on the market."

Efficacy Expectations Pose Challenges For Safety Balance

While stylists and other beauty professionals surveyed by the group expressed concerns about toxic chemical exposure and interest in safer products, they also noted the importance they and their clients place on products that deliver results.

In a survey BWW conducted from June 2011 to August 2013, effectiveness was the No. 1 reason cited by 40 Los Angeles-area hair professionals for using the products that they do in their businesses.

"All stylists said that effectiveness was either 'very important' or 'important' when it comes to choosing a product," BWW reports, noting that accessibility and product ingredients were the next most-cited reasons.

"Stylists answered that they would absolutely be willing to use safer work-related products" – and pay a premium for them – "if they could be shown to be safe and effective for them and their clients. The stylists indicated that they are actively looking for alternatives with very little success," the nonprofit says.

Consumers BWW polled in 2009 and 2010 had similar incentives for choosing products, with many buying items that "worked for their friends" or women they knew with "good hair."

"When [companies] switch a product it stops working the way they used to work. They’re taking [the chemical] out for a good reason, but then our clients are like, 'Wait a minute, something’s not right.'" – stylist in a BWW focus group

In a 2014 survey, the organization interviewed 22 stylists who worked predominantly with African American/black clients, with efficacy again coming up as a top priority. Forty-two percent of respondents said the most important consideration in their purchasing decisions was "how well a product worked."

Price was the most important factor for 15% of stylists interviewed, while it was least important for another 15%.

A focus group BWW conducted with stylists in South Los Angeles shed light on the perceived lack of viable alternatives in professional hair care to substitute for products deemed potentially hazardous.

In the area of relaxers – which BWW characterizes as one of the most toxic product hair-care categories, along with hair dyes and hormone-containing conditioners – stylists noted that offerings scored as safer in the Environmental Working Group's Skin Deep database were unreliable in their experience.

"When [companies] switch a product it stops working the way they used to work," one focus-group participant remarked. “They’re taking [the chemical] out for a good reason, but then our clients are like, 'Wait a minute, something’s not right.'"

The fact that "Original" Brazilian Blowout Acai Professional Smoothing Solution remains on the market – despite safety concerns that have prompted regulatory intervention in recent years, a $4.5m class-action settlement in California and continued calls for its removal from consumer watchdog groups – speaks to the enduring demand for high-performing hair straighteners Also see "Brazilian Blowout Manufacturer Required To Label, Warn Users" - HBW Insight, 6 January, 2014..

Similar safety/efficacy tradeoffs have been seen in hair colorants, according to the focus group BWW convened.

“I know from dying my hair over the years," one participant said. "I’ve had every color of the rainbow and I know exactly when they took that chemical out that was giving people brain tumors and cancer, and that is why your dyes don’t last now. If you dye your hair you notice the gray pops out in two weeks’ time. It used to be six to eight weeks, but they had [to] by law take the chemical out."

The perceived safety/efficacy conflict in salon hair care highlights continued opportunity for innovation that minimizes risk without compromising on results and/or improved messaging to ensure users that safety and efficacy are not mutually exclusive goals.

BWW Seeks Policy Reform

From BWW's perspective, greater awareness and policy reform are needed to address hair-care safety issues.

Improved outreach and education would be a good start, the group suggests.

"There is a need and want for information and training around toxic chemicals for both hair professionals and consumers. Adding curriculum in cosmetology schools about chemical exposure of hair products as well as ways to mitigate risk of chemical exposure would go a long way in decreasing health risks to professionals."

The group adds that "making labels easier to read and providing more information about the toxicity and health effects of chemicals would help to mitigate risk factors."

The regulatory landscape also needs to change, BWW suggests.

"Creating and enforcing policies and regulations that use the precautionary principle when evaluating chemical safety is an important step in mitigating the risk of toxic exposure to the public as well as with workers. In addition, a system is needed that can regulate and remove chemicals from personal care, hair and cleaning products that have a proven health risk in a timely and effective manner," it says.

Finally, the group advocates more research on "the use and impact of toxic chemicals on communities of color."

[Editor's note: "The Rose Sheet" also published this article. "The Tan Sheet" brings selected complementary coverage from our sister publications to our subscribers.]

Black Women's Wellness Study Links Hair Care To Endemic Health Issues

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